Saigon is a petri dish of organized chaos, a demonstration in duality, the perfect example of push and pull. “Everyday is an adventure here,” a recent transplant told me, an adventure fueled by what he called “ingredient X.” There’s no avoiding it: the country provides beauty and tragedy in equal measure, a dose of the good always chased by a gut shot of the bad. The peculiar, the outlandish: in Saigon, these are two of the few consistencies of daily life.

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Observation No. 14

Night Bus to Saigon